sexta-feira, 26 de junho de 2009

Exposição Madeleine Vionnet em Paris

Recebi um email com uma ótima notícia para quem está ou vai a Paris até 31 de janeiro de 2010: está acontecendo a exposição "Madeleine Vionnet-Puriste de la mode" no Les Arts Decoratifs.

A exposição é uma retrospectiva do trabalho de Vionnet, que até hoje inspira estilistas como John Galliano, Yohji Yamamoto e Azzedine Alaïa. Suas criações libertaram o corpo da mulher nos anos 20 e 30, quando apertados espartilhos e corseletes eram a ordem do dia. Com modelagens mais amplas ela redescobriu o corpo feminino dando conforto e movimento, através da forma e do corte de suas roupas.Considerada uma das maiores estilistas de todos os tempos, Vionnet criava seus modelos em miniaturas de bonecas para só depois de pronto passar para a escala humana. Suas criações tinham linhas aparentemente simples, mas por trás existia todo um estudo de corte e drapeados. Foi considerada a rainha do corte enviesado, a estilista encomendava seus tecidos com quase dois metros a mais para esculpir seus drapeados.

Modelos de Madeleine Vionnet

Tinha uma preocupação muito grande quanto aos tecidos: usava o crepe da china, a gabardina e o cetim para a confecção de seus modelos, tecidos pouco comuns nas décadas de 20 e 30. Audrey Hepburn e Marlene Dietrich foram algumas celebridades da época que usavam suas roupas.

Quem não tiver como ver in loco (a.k.a Paris) a exposição, é só entrar no site do museu e se encantar.

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